Que bien!!!!

It is an old step for humankind, but at least I am moving in the right direction.

I coded today the functions required to get 3D spectrum from the data we have, and I tested succesfully a nonlinear fit of the dispersion curve to determine the depth in the absence of currents. Once I turn on the option with currents, the results deviate a lot, but I think the reason is that I have very few points to give statistical robustness to the least squares method.

Anyway, I tested the codes for video data (2711215 and outside the surfzone, ala Dugan et al.) and it yielded a mean water depth of 6.11 m, which is pretty reasonable for the region x=300:500 m in Duck.

In this movie it is possible to see the directional spectrum for the frequencies in the range f=0.03-0.05 Hz. On top of the spectra is plotted the theoretical dispersion curve obtained with that frequency and the depth obtained. Agreement in general is pretty good. It can also be seen that the dominant direction is slightly off from the shorenormal, as seen from the data movies, but I haven't really computed that value.

So, all in all, progress.